For every great idea, there is a way to make that idea better, stronger, more creative. It has to be discussed and cultivated to the point of near disgust, then added to and altered one thousand times. Such was the case in the days leading to September 17, 2011.
As a born Adirondack local, I’ve known of Mt. Marcy in the High Peaks Region for many years, but have largely avoided it in my quest for 46r status. The largest and most compelling personal reason for this avoidance is my intense dislike for sharing summits with masses of people. As Marcy stands as the tallest mountain in New York State, it quickly becomes one of, if not the most, visited and ascended peaks in the park on any given weekend. Along with Tyler, a close friend and accompanying author to Nor’East Mountain Mill, an idea was hatched. We would ascend the peak in complete darkness, sitting atop Mt. Marcy in time to offer the first ‘Good Morning’ to the sun as it rose over the mountains, meadows, and lakes of the Adirondacks.
From the get-go, we realized we were in for a long few days. Tyler and I both work full time, and I also bartend in the evenings. Specifically, I was on the clock until approximately 10:30PM the night before our desired morning. Sunrise for September 17 was to occur around 6:30AM. Therein, I had 8 hours to meet Tyler, drive to Upper Works trailhead in Tahawus, and hike the 10.1 miles from the trailhead to Marcy. In hindsight, and upon review of the time schedule we agreed on, I am still in awe that this plan was even considered. Regardless, I left Potsdam, NY at 11PM on the nose, headed to Long Lake boat launch, where I was to rendezvous with Tyler, change out of the clothes I bartended in and into something a bit more mountain friendly, carpooling to the trailhead. Arriving at 12:30AM, I found Tyler asleep in his truck, completely disoriented upon waking (A running theme – See Duck Hole Part 1 post). Good morning pleasantries exchanged, we were on the road through Newcomb, NY and north to Upper Works by 12:45AM. 5 hours 45 minutes until sun-up.
While I’m well on my way to my 46r status, I had not, as of yet, ever used the Upper Works Trailhead before. Certainly a creepy place at night, the feeling of desolation is more than abundant – being there alone would make anyone a bit skittish. Parking the truck in the upper lot, we signed the registry, something that was forgotten on the Duck Hole adventure of which I did not take part. I have no direct affiliation with any park agency, but for the sake of anyone you plan to meet, as well as the rangers and volunteers sent to find your lost ass, please, remember to sign the register! That said, we got a move on – Marcy bound at 1:37 AM. Approximately 0.3 miles down the trail, we realized something we would come to battle with for the remainder of the morning. It is frigid. We picked the night of the first official frost of fall to spend the night outside. Fortunately, some thought was put into what that summit weather would be like in advance, and were prepared for cold weather, though we never thought we would be pulling it out just shy of the parking lot. For clarity sake, my pack included: 3L water, 4 sandwiches, 4 cereal bars, 1 flannel, 1 softshell jacket, 1 raincoat, 3 long sleeve shirts, winter gloves and hat, spare winter socks, camera (T2i), headlamp + batteries, map/compass/gps/lighter/bandages/string/knife, long pants, and some testicular fortitude.
The trail from Upper Works to Flowed Lands is pleasant and gradual, as the most challenging part of this hike is actually getting in to the mountain. Somewhere between 0.5 and 1 mile from the parking lot, however, we found ourselves at a cross roads. The trail very clearly went off to the right, as the map said it would in order to cross the river, but was blocked by large amounts of brush. Deliberately put there, we were confused as to what to do – there was a FRESHLY cut trail staring at us as an alternative to the blocked route. Remembering the signs at the registry, I could not think of any mention of a rerouted trail. Somewhat halfheartedly, we took the fresh trail instead of the blocked route, figuring that Hurricane Irene may have washed out the bridge a few weeks earlier. As we later found out, this was precisely the case. The new trail connects with the original trail in approximately 0.5 miles, crossing the river then. No problem.
Continuing in the dark, we reach Flowed Lands in the midst of typical post-grad loud and raucous conversation, undoubtedly sultry in nature, accidently waking those in the local lean-to. To the people that we awoke, if you are reading this now, know that I am not sorry. I was having a blast. From Flowed Lands, the trail continues to Lake Colden. Standing on the dam in absolute darkness, headlamps off, and looking down the lake in pure moonlight is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. This is the kind of place you ask a woman to marry you. The shadow of Lake Colden and the glimmers of moonlight on the water are simply breath taking. From Lake Colden, the trail follows the Opalescent River and Feldspar Brook, passing Hanging Spear Falls, a merely a loud, rushing river with 60 foot cliffs in the dark, but something to be gawked at in the daylight. Following the river and brook, we found that this area still has some blow down from Irene. In the darkness, some thorough bushwhacking was involved as a work-around. On our return journey, we discovered that these obstacles were not nearly as challenging as they were made out to be at night. At nearly 3.5 miles from Lake Colden, you find yourself passing the shores of Lake Tear of the Clouds. Cool name, dinky pond. This pond, however, is the highest known source of the Hudson River, earning my respect and appreciation for the body of water it fuels.
Approximately 0.3 miles past Lake Tear, Four Corners, located in the valley between Skylight Mountain and Gray Peak, is reached. Hang a left, Mt. Marcy; a right, Skylight. Push straight through and continue on to Panther Gorge and Mt. Haystack (Post to come). Now 5:55AM, we vaulted up Marcy, hustling so as not to miss the sunrise. By this time, we had covered over 9 miles and had worked up quite a sweat, hiking in sub-30 degree weather in long sleeve shirts. As we crested tree-line, however, life became, in a word, COLD. Bundling up, we shuffled our way up Schofield Cobble, through already forming veins of ice, and to the summit. 6:15AM.
Success. We had summited Mt. Marcy, the tallest mountain in New York, before the sun rose and on zero sleep. We are either complete idiots, or seriously badass.
Reveling in our accomplishment, we snapped photos, had a drink of water (my first of the trip, whoops), and shivered like Bear Grylls off camera. At 20 degrees Fahrenheit, plus a steady 10-15 mph hour wind, our summit lives were extremely uncomfortable, all while in one of the most unique locations and scenarios I have encountered in quite some time. In all, we spent 20 minutes at the summit before we were forced to descend due to numb hands and feet. Approaching Four Corners, There is a clearing, labeled as ‘No Camping,’ where we chose to sit and rest. This break turned into the two of us laying our raincoats and pack rain flies on the frost covered grass and taking a well-deserved nap. Waking at 8:30AM, we continued through Four Corners and ascended Mt. Skylight, an easy 0.5 mile hike to a glorious summit. By this time, the sun had warmed the area, and we were able to hike in just flannel shirts to the top, where we enjoyed an hour of solitude. Basking in the shadow of Marcy, we could see people arriving at the summit, undoubtedly thinking they were the first of the day to arrive. It is a great feeling to know that they were not, you were, and there is no need to share it with them. Accomplishments kept to oneself are the accomplishments I am most proud of.
Eating our ‘lunch’ on Skylight, we left after about an hour of sustained relaxation. Traveling back along the trail we came, we again approached Lake Tear of the Clouds, this time crossing the lake outlet and following the unmarked path 0.5 miles to the summit of Gray Peak. Certainly an easy ascent, Irene blow down was yet encountered but easily worked through. The summit of Gray, while wooded, offers several boulders which provide great opportunities for photos of Skylight, Marcy, Colden, Algonquin, and Iroquois. Descending the mountain after approximately a half hour, we met a 46r, Gary, doing trail maintenance on Gray. Per his request, and our interest in what he was doing, Tyler and I helped remove a tree that had fallen across the path, a 15 minute adventure into trail maintenance, something of which I have never partaken.
My least favorite part of hiking is always our exit from the mountains. Specifically, this becomes more challenging if you leave the same way you came in. This day, however, would be different; we would see everything we missed on our approach to Marcy that morning. Taking our sweet time, we travelled from Lake Tear out to Upper Works, largely in silence due to our significant lack of sleep, and sighed in relief with the knowledge that we accomplished precisely what we said we would do. Strong will breeds strong minds and stronger friendships. The future holds nothing but great ideas waiting to be hatched, tweaked, and accomplished.
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